As our small plane landed in Kruger National Park, we saw an impala grazing near the runway! Wow! Our guide for the week greeted us inside the airport and drove us to our lodge where we had lunch before our first game drive. The views from the lodge as well as our room itself were STUNNING! Monkeys regularly came to enjoy our private pool and balcony, and we watched an elephant drink from the river out our bathroom window. We also had a family of hippos who seemed to live right outside and got to watch and listen to them as we were served a delicious ostrich burger for lunch! Who cares if it’s 100 degrees outside when you have this much life around you?!

Once again, the timing of the omicron COVID outbreak worked out in our favor. This usually full lodge had only a few guests, and initially it was only us and one other couple.

Our first game drive did not disappoint! We saw elephants, giraffes, impalas, kudu, buffalo, warthogs, and a rare pangolin. Pangolins are difficult to find because they are one of the world’s most poached and trafficked animals. Our guide, who had been working in wildlife for over 20 years said he had only seen 3 or 4! When it got close to sunset, we stopped in an open area for drinks and a snack and our guide and tracker switched over to bartenders. There was another cool couple from Botswana with us, and they told us that when in the bush, the drink of choice is gin and tonic. I had already opted for a glass of refreshing white wine, but we all cheers’d for some in-the-bush camaraderie and enjoyed the beautiful sunset together.

The ride back to the lodge after sunset was thrilling and slightly terrifying. Our driver drove faster than usual, rarely stopping, and our tracker shone a red spotlight to help spot animals in the dark without blinding them. We managed to see a hippo, a hyena, and an elephant run across the road at different times!

On the 2nd day, we woke up at 5am to have our first morning safari. Our Botswanian friends slept in, so it was just us with our guide and tracker. After a drive filled with tons of zebras and giraffes, we paused to take a picture of a big bird in a far off tree for a friend who loves birds and birdwatching.

Birdwatchers see the most animals because they know how to be patient and still. Watch a bird for long enough, and you’ll see something else.

– MANDLA, guide

And sure enough, in the next tree over, I spotted our first leopard! Wow! In a tree! Our guide drove closer to the tree, and we watched this beauty climb down off the tree. We followed her into the brush with the vehicle as she jumped down. Apparently there are some types of animals that guides are allowed to follow into the brush and others they aren’t. Cats can be followed. We finally found her huddled down next to a bush, and our jeep got so close to her on my side of the car, I probably could have touched her if I put my hand out. Don’t worry, I would NEVER do that. Number one rule of safaris, DON’T STAND UP, and don’t try to touch animals. Someone told us leopards are small… NOT true!

I tried to stay calm as she looked up at me with her piercing green eyes. And then I panicked a little. All I know is house cats, and if you know cats, when they stare you in the eyes like that, they might be thinking about pouncing right at you. “Go, go go!” I said as quietly as I could in panic. The guide moved the car forward a little, chuckled, and urged me that it was safe. He said wild cats always give you a warning before they attack, body language, a sound, different cues that he’s an expert in. Still, I would have never expected to be scared, but it’s intense having an animal that could kill you stare that intimately into your eyes!

A bit later, we came across an enormous herd of elephants that eventually crossed the road in front of us! When we first saw them in the distance, it reminded me of Dumbo when the elephants are all in a line walking somewhere. It was just like that… except real! Our guide and tracker estimated at least 50 elephants! And there were even a few babies that they guessed weren’t even more than a week old! Incredible!

On our evening game drive, back with our Botswanian friends again, after searching high and low, we finally found lions! A pride of around 15 – one male, several females, and tons of cubs of various ages! Incredible, majestic, terrifying! We sat with the car about 10 feet away from the closest lions and watched as the sun lowered in the sky for a good 20 minutes. When we first drove up, of course the lions were on the same side as us 2 women. We bonded in anxiety over how close we were to these massive creatures until our guide finally moved the car around so the lions were on the guys’ side of the car. The lions were mostly taking their mid-afternoon nap. The moms were trying to get a little rest away from the little ones, but the little cubs, full of energy of course, kept pouncing around waking their moms trying to get some milk. A few moms got a little cranky about it and there were some hisses and growls and low grunts. Eventually, they lions got up and one by one made their way away out of the little peaceful area where we all waited and made their way towards wherever their lion journey would take them next.

After the lions were a safe distance away, Mandla started the car… except that it didn’t start. He tried again with no success after the male lion slowly walked past up to take up the caboose of the lion line. The male paused briefly looked back as us one more time before continuing ahead past the brush. We laughed nervously. Kurt and Tapelo (from Botswana) got out to push. I was impressed with how calm our guide and tracker were. Mandla and Rexton are both professionals skilled in life on a safari, but they did their job well, both solving the problem and staying calm for the guests. Thankfully the car started with enough help from the pushing, and we made it back uneaten!

We were dropped off at the Tinyeleti Treehouse for our one of a kind night under the stars, but I’ll write a separate post about that.

On our last 2 game drives, we finally found the rhinos thanks to our guide and tracker’s excellent animal-finding skills! Rhinos are becoming more and more rare as they are increasingly poached, even inside the national parks and protected areas. Mandla told us he used to work for an anti-poaching government org, and he told us a few stories. Poachers are dangerous and have zero respect for life. Some national parks tried cutting off rhino’s horns to deter poachers, since their horns are a huge part of what they’re poached for. Poachers continued killing hornless rhinos out of spite for the policy. They’re also known for killing any human who tries to get in their way. Scary stuff.

We paused for our morning safari coffee by the river and shortly after came across hyenas going down to the river for some water and others just chilling on the road. We also found some young impalas practicing their fighting skills for mating season when they have to fight each other for control of the herd.

Back at the lodge in between game drives, we enjoyed relaxing afternoons with delicious food and drinks, great views from our room, and the lodge spa! On the last night, we were surprised with a special romantic dinner in the cool wine cellar and came back to our room decorated with hearts made from leaves and flowers and other natural elements.

Our honeymoon safari was beyond what these words can convey and a once in a lifetime opportunity. What an awesome adventure to start our marriage with!